Jump to content

DaveK

Members
  • Posts

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Arizona
  • Interests
    Astrophotography, Ice Hockey, Amatuer Radio, Barefoot Water Skiing, Snow Skiing

DaveK's Achievements

Member

Member (1/1)

  1. That's an ambiguous question. I don't let windows perform updates on this computer. If anything has changed, it's minor, like some settings in CCDAutoPilot or something simple like that. In any case, there should be no reason for the Window Form not to come up after it initializes.
  2. I have used the ACC software many times with my ASA mount, now I am using it with my 10N and OK3 focuser on a different mount and it won't display the software window. When it loads, it displays a blank winodw (with logo), performs a home find and then closes. The window to allow changes to the software never appears and when to the ACCServer running on the system using FocusMax I get an error message saying 20:26:04 ASA ACC Focuser is disconnected 20:26:05 Focuser: ASA ACC Focuser is connected 20:26:05 Focuser: ASA ACC Focuser is an Absolute Focuser 20:26:05 Temp. compensation available = True 20:26:05 20:26:05 ** Current focuser position exceeds driver Max Travel limit of 0 ** 20:26:05 ** You will need to reposition focuser manually ** I can't HomeFind, focus or move the focuser from this I even tried the old OK3 software and the Windows form will not load. Please help. My system is useless if I can't focus.
  3. Yes, you can connect them both to a common USB hub. I have done this with the Icron Ranger. http://www.icron.com/products/icron-brand/usb-extenders/cat5/usb-2-0-ranger-2204/
  4. I had two park positions, one called North pointing to the pole and one called HomeFind with the counterweight shaft east and the OTa to the zenith. I created both of these by moving the mount to the desired position then setting each park position ot the current position. A few days ago I manually changed the first park position to a new position by entering coordinates into the parat position parameters and then saving the position. Now, neither park position works. I cannot go to them clicking the icons or by the menu. When I move the telescope to a desired position and save the position and rename it, the telescope will not go there by clicking to park the telescope. It is as if the parking feature is disabled completely, except that I can save positions and names. How can I fix this problem without a factory reset of the .ini file?
  5. Thanks for the kind comments. This is one of my best images. I try hard but I am still quite new at this astrophotography hobby. I have been experiementing with binning the traditional L 1x1 and RGB 2x2 in comparison with all image binned 1x1. The images LRGB binned 1x1 appear better to my eye. Perhaps its an illusion?
  6. Mark, I am glad the information I have provide helps. One more thing to think about. When you have a very good set of DIP parameters, the mount should almost be silent. In fact, mine is completely silent in DEC and in RA it makes a very low whining noise, like a mini jet engine ramping up in speed when it takes off, the same tone during slew and then a winding down sound as it comes to a halt. This is a very subtle and quiet sound, but when you hear it, you will know you mount is tuned perfectly. When the mount is at rest there should be no physical oscillations of the OTA or counter weight shaft. If you have any check to ensure the noise filter is not enabled on the RA. Likely you will need the noise filter enabled on the DEC axis. Let me know your results.
  7. DaveK

    M13

    Impressive. Could you kindly post the details of your exposures. I have never successfully imaged a globular cluster and I would very much like to know how you acquired the data. By the way, besides the extraordinary resolution on the stars, you have at least five galaxies in your image! One good sized at the top, another medium below it and then three tiny galaxies on the right side. Dave
  8. I acquired this full resolution image of M78 in February of this year. It was featured in the reader gallery of Astronomy magazine in July 2013. Imaging telescopes or lenses:ASA ASA10N-OK3 10" f/3.6 Newtonian Astrograph Imaging cameras:FLI ML8300 Mounts:ASA DDM85X-SL Focal reducers:ASA Wynne 3" Corrector 0.95x - 3 KORRW Software:CCDWare CCDStack, Software Bisque TheSkyX, ASA Autoslew, Astrooptik - Dipl. Phys. Dr. Philipp Keller Sequence 9 Filters:Astrodon Tru-Balance Generation 2 E-Series - L 50mm - NIR Blocked, Astrodon Tru-Balance Generation 2 E-Series - B 50mm - NIR Blocked, Astrodon Tru-Balance Generation 2 E-Series - G 50mm - NIR Blocked, Astrodon Tru-Balance Generation 2 E-Series - R 50mm - NIR Blocked Accessories:FLI CFW-2-7 50mm round 7 position filter wheel Resolution: 3175x2365 Dates: Feb. 12, 2013, Feb. 13, 2013 Locations: SpaceIgloo Observatory - Arizona Frames: Astrodon Tru-Balance Generation 2 E-Series - B 50mm - NIR Blocked: 7x600" -35C bin 1x1 Astrodon Tru-Balance Generation 2 E-Series - G 50mm - NIR Blocked: 7x600" -35C bin 1x1 Astrodon Tru-Balance Generation 2 E-Series - L 50mm - NIR Blocked: 16x600" -35C bin 1x1 Astrodon Tru-Balance Generation 2 E-Series - R 50mm - NIR Blocked: 7x600" -35C bin 1x1 Integration: 6.2 hours Darks: ~50 Bias: ~50 Avg. Moon age: 2.32 days Avg. Moon phase: 6.22% Bortle Dark-Sky Scale: 2.00 Mean SQM: 21.60
  9. I have an ASA N10 Astrograph with an OK3 focuser and an FLI ML8300 & FLI CFW2-7 on a DDM85X-SL and my settings are the following: RA DIP= 2130, 72000 13.5 Noise Filter Off DE DIP= 2100, 71000 13.8 Noise Filter On Polar alignment is accurate to 0.15' RA and 0.2' DE. My tuning on both axis is less than 0.11 peak to peak in sidereal. I have a 40 star pointing model with 20 stars on each side of the mount. This allows me to image with MLPT for 20 minutes unguided operation with nice round stars. Please note this is a portable operation. I have nice round markings on my driveway for the Losmandy Titan Tripod feet and I setup the mount for each imaging session, which lasts about 10 days. Each time I set up the system, the tripod markings find my polar alignment with about + or - 20 arc minutes, well within the FOV of my ML8300. Once setup, I run the balance routines in both HomeFind and Polar positions, then I always check the tuning and make tiny adjustments if necessary to obtain the 0.11 peak to peak error. No more than a few clicks of increment/decrement are necessary on the D or I settings. I always stick P to I. I save my tuning sessions for EVERY combinataion of telescope, camera and accessories. I have for example, one for ASA-ML8300-CFW2-7 and another for ASA-ML8300-CFW2-7-LuntSolarScope when I have the Lunt solarscope mounted on top of the ASA N10 for daytime use. I also have a very different tuning setup for my RCOS 12.5" astrograph with an FLI PL16803 & CL1-10 Filter Wheel. I hope this information helps you to find a good starting position. Good luck finding your optimal tuning parameters.
  10. I had an oscillation problem on the RA axis and I discovered that turning off the noise filter solved my problem immediately. I started with an auto tune and then tuned manually for optimal settings. Each time I turned on the RA noise filter the oscillations returned. I never use the noise filter on the RA axis.
  11. Nigel wrote: "...because the heavy filter wheel is offset to one side of the camera, the balance changes as I rotate..." This is precisely why I purchased the FLI CL1-10 Centerline Filter Wheel. It is symmetrical and remains in balance with my Proline PL16803 camera when rotated via the PIR on my RCOS telescope. I also have an FLI ML8300 with a CFW2-7 and it is difficult to balance in all positions.
  12. I powered my PL16803 from a single galvanized supply, then used the PL16803 to power the CenterLine CL1-10 filter wheel AND my SBIG ST404ME guide camera. Works perfectly.
  13. Max, I don't understand. How does synching on a "new" star have anything to do with adding more stars to an existing pointing model? The pointing model measures polar misalignment, flexure, collimation error, tube flex and mount angle error. The system is designed for portable operations so you can make only a three star polar alignment, then use an existing pointing model, so why would adding a few stars after synching on a new star have any impact on the pointing model? When I start Autoslew for a new imaging session, whether returning from park or starting up and doing a HomeFind, I always slew to a bright star and synch both TheSkyX and Sequence. I have then added stars to a pointing file manually and with Sequence and have never experienced any problems. Please explain.
  14. I use Anderson Powerpoles and a rigrunner. Using the Anderson Powerpoles, I can either connect the ASA cable and FLI cable directly together, or I can mount a small rigrunner to the top Losmandy plate on my ASA rings and plug each cable into the rigrunner providing fused connections. I prefer to use fused connections. With the Proline camera I only need one 12v connection from the rigrunnner to the PL16803 and the PL16803 powers the filter wheel and guide camera. When I use the ML8300, I connect the ASA power to the rigrunner, then plug each device (ML8300, CFW2-7 and ST402ME) directly into the rigrunner providing individually fused power. If you require some extra power cable length, you can buy some black/red zip cord and heat shrink and solder the zip cord directly to the ASA cable, Because the zip cord is a larger guage wire it provides a better connection to the Anderson Powerpoles when crimping. You could also buy the DIN connector for the ASA power connection and only use the heavy zip cord instead of the ASA cable. This isn't a bad idea if you are comfortable making DIN cables. I bought everything (zip cord, powerpoles, crimp tool, rigrunner) I needed from West Mountain Radio. Don't forget the crimp tool. It is a special tool and is required for making Anderson Powerpoles. http://www.westmountainradio.com/rigrunner.php You can also buy a variety of premade Anderson Powerpole cables here... http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=rr_4008h_c You can buy Anderson Powerpoles directly here http://www.andersonpower.com/products/singlepole-connectors.html From the information provided above, I need to change my 10 amp fuse to a 7 amp fuse. Thank you.
  15. Mark, I look forward to learning about your results. Unfortuantely, my event is tomorrow night (weather permitting) and I am out of time to find a solution. I guess ASA isn't monitoring their own threads any better than they monitored the Yahoo group. Oh well, I know they are busy making products. Hopefully one day they will dedicate a person to helping people on thier forum. The biggest issue for me is the fact that I cannot use a diagonal. Using any eyepiece without a diagonal will likely place the viewer in some very uncomfortable positions. Best of luck with your tests.
×
×
  • Create New...