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Waldemar

Beta Tester
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Everything posted by Waldemar

  1. I use a Logitech F-310 wireless gamepad without problems. The receiver is pemanently plugged in to the USB Ranger. Sometimes it takes a little while before it starts working, but it always does. Regards, Waldemar Should be F-710
  2. I always reboot after deleting or installing anything. If all files are deleted, you should answer "no", as far as I know that question also refers to the FTDI drivers. Under: C; program files(x86) are another Autoslew and Sequence file on my computer... For total clean up I would remove those as well. Waldemar
  3. Markus, The files you are looking for are not under drivers, but under: C; program files; data; asa; they are called called ini files Those are the files that stay on your computer and determine the user settings. You will have to delete those in order to be able to start at zero.First delete the programs with control panel; change or delete programs, after that you delete the Sequence and AutoSlew files, reboot and re install. The whole procedure is described in the manual. Regards, Waldemar
  4. Prefetch, In AS under the tuning settings are a few factory settings as well: Low, medium and high weight. I choose the medium weight PID settings. They were a lot softer than the automatic PID settings I got from the automatic tuning. For my TEC140 the medium settings work nice without any vibrations or sounds. but in your case they may need some adjusting as well. It took me some time to get things right in the beginning as well. Patience and Perseverance are the key words here. The better balance and tuning the better results. So, the invested time will pay off :-) Regards, Waldemar
  5. Lukas, could you provide us with a link to your system? Thanks in advance, Waldemar
  6. I was referring to a replacement for my bamboo azimuth adjustment and hoping it would not be too expensive ...
  7. Yes, it is!!! amazing! Taking orders? Waldemar
  8. I had some weird behavior, because in AS the park positions were 180° off. As soon as I told the mount it was in West position, while in reality it was in East, problems were gone. It seems in your case the mount is getting the opposite signals from what it should get. Maybe the above error? This happened with the beta version. Waldemar
  9. Oeps...Sebastian, I see you are neighboring Austria... Bavaria is famous too, isn't it....? Nice combinations: Beer and Schnapps or the other way around. Have to visit you one day... hahaha Waldemar
  10. hahahaha Sebastian, been in Austria?? They got over 80% proof boose... that says it all :-)
  11. That cable is the basic power supply cable for DDM60Pro. (6 pins) For DDM85 the same cable is used, but for powering the focuser you need the 4 wire cable, or use the 4-wire GALV connector (4 pins). I did not like the cables, so I made new ones with shielded cable and paired twisted wires, to prevent electrical interferences. That may be over the top, but I am quite anal about these things. I am also using the straight connector types, not the original 90° ones, so my cables have less bending stress. Waldemar
  12. Prefetch, It is very easy to read the instructions wrong... as far as I am concerned the only downside of ASA: bad manuals, bad translations. Good to hear your problem is solved and the mount is working! ASA strongly advises not to engage the motors without load... Only do a rough PA with the laser without OTA and weights. Waldemar
  13. I agree with Nigel... very unusual! Did you try another power supply ? Laboratory supplies sometimes give problems, don't know exactly why, though... but I guess it is about recovering time from voltage peaks or drops I use very cheap switching supplies (12V 150 W ± 50 euros) and had no issues at all. Three of those are in use: 1 for the mount (12,5 A), 1 for the camera (8 A) and 1 for all other applications like focuser and dew stuff (also 8 A). In this way you really diminish the chance on electrical problems due to voltage drops caused by temporary high demand of any piece of equipment. Be sure to use the same AC outlet to prevent ground loops. Or try a car battery... Waldemar
  14. Maybe there is a breach in the cable close to the plug, so when it is bend in the way it is when attached to the mount, it looses contact? If you open the plug, you may see some more... I use 12V switching power supplies with a possible setting point +/- 2V and set it on 12,5 V. 13.9V may not be too high for the mount, but the TEC of your camera(s) may have problems with it. Waldemar
  15. Here is my solution for rigidity... 3 telescope rings and a long Losmandy dovetail plate on top and bottom. Attached to the original ASA saddleplate.Works great
  16. Good news, bad news... glad you found something, makes it a bit easier to handle. Not enjoyable though The lead that is powering the hub (black/red) seems to come from that area. So your idea that the voltage regulator is the burned component is probably true. It looks like a capacitor or a zener diode is fried as well, which may be the initiator to the problem. This would really explain your connectivity problems. It is hard to believe this is caused by a voltage drop because of high power demands from your motors. A drop from 24 V to With that in mind, it would be nice to see how your 24V supply tries to compensate for huge drops... maybe it overshoots the VR's limit. Anyway, a new board will work wonders. Waldemar
  17. I am sure they will do a great job, Lukas. You will have a lot of good times with your mount! If I were you I would give them the wine afterwards... I mean...those Austrians, you know. Hell, they make 80% proof rum, that must mean something... hahaha Alternative: come over and I will help you finish them :lol: Waldemar
  18. Well, Lukas, at least a little bonus for all the body building workout you did in case of this event... and... your mount will be checked, checked and double checked... they will leave nothing uninvestigated. When I sent my mount in for upgrading with absolute encoders, I was really surprised when I got it back: They did everything! Not just encoders, but wiring, new connectors, powered USB hub, electronic boards, the works! Right now it may be a pain in the uhhh... neck (literally), but you will be glad when it's done and have your self confidence back. Waldemar
  19. Hi Lukas, This sounds like the same problem Jeffrey Jongmans (member jjongmans) had a year ago. After returning the mount It turned out to be a failing USB hub and/or an electronic board. Maybe you can pm him for more information... Regards, Waldemar
  20. Hi Ian, I would call them, like Luke said. They DO have very good service, maybe your mail ended up in the spambox... Weird things happen with email sometimes. Regards, Waldemar
  21. Hi Chocolate Elephant, The people with geared mounts, also with the expensive ones, are used to "out-balance " the backlash, so the mount is heavy to one side. If they would not have the gears to stop movement, they certainly would damage their instruments. Not realizing or knowing the advantages of DD, they assume the same is necessary with the DDM mounts, which would result in crashed equipment when power fails. The only possible event may happen when power fails during a fast slew as is mentioned before. I never tried this deliberately... but will when there is a possibility. But as everybody here knows: we do not have that kind of issues with our DDM's, so: don't worry, be happy :-) Waldemar
  22. Thanks Lukas, I did not know that, I never worked with the LE version Waldemar
  23. Hi, Maybe it is sixth months since your original post because nobody has any problems and there was nothing to solve? I never encountered any mechanical problem and do not expect one either. The mechanical quality is absurdly high I think. I can hear the cables move inside the mount, but that is because the mount is so incredibly silent The only thing I am not font of about my DDM60Pro is the tip/tilt system for azimuth, but that is very personal. To solve that I made a simple azimuthal adjustment system from 25 and 40 mm. bamboo plywood 250 mm circles on top of my pier. Works great! Of course I will change it for anodized aluminum when I can and/or need to. I would love to have an original ASA replacement for this like the adjustment system on the DDM85... ?? ASA Gentlemen?? Best regards, Waldemar
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